Editor’s note: Rick McKay, Joe Masonick, and Jack Karolewski, have been travel companions for more than 50 years to a variety of sites with many goals. This week’s adventure is the 14th in the series.
The previous article is at thevoice.us/cathedrals-compelling
By Rick McKay
Day two in the 14-day hike in 2005 across northern Spain’s intriguing Camino de Santiago, known as the Way of Santiago, followed a rugged first day in Leon for the three veteran hikers. Here is a return to the journal of adventures.
Day 2: Astorga to Rabanal, Saturday, Sept. 17, 2005.
After accidentally sleeping in late due to a rough night for each of us, we missed our early departure from Leon. So we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the San Marco before catching the 10:30 a.m. bus to Astorga, and arrived around 11 a.m..
Astorga is an old Roman town, settled to exploit the gold deposits in the surrounding hills. It boasts a beautiful cathedral and bishops’ palace just across from the bus station. Just like most of the cathedrals in Europe, its high walls were breathtaking. We wandered about and enjoyed the Gregorian chant (recorded, though it was) in the background. After a brief stop at the bishops’ palace we officially began our pilgrimage on the Camino which passes just north of the cathedral.
Astorga is not very large and within a half-hour we were outside of town going toward the mountains to the west (the Cantabrica range). The landscape was much more beautiful than I had imagined from the pictures we perused on the internet prior to our arrival: Rolling hills, an occasional cluster of oak trees, or pines, golden fields of recently-harvested grain. There were a few pilgrims on the trail, but much of the time one felt alone in the quiet of the country. Early on, the wind picked up and beat against our backs from the north and the east for the duration of the day. The temperature hovered around 70 degrees, a bit chilly with the wind. I put an earplug in my right ear against developing an infection in that vulnerable orifice.
We passed through several villages before arriving in Rabanal around 6 p.m.,, not too much the worse for the wear, although I have been suffering a soreness next to the shin bone on my right leg which manifested itself after the completion of yesterday’s all-day tour of Leon. At least the feet fared well.
We weren’t sure what to expect from the Albergues (hostels), but were much delighted at what we found in Rabanal: Clean and warm dormitory-type rooms around a small rectangular courtyard with a small bar and kitchen/dining area attached. There were sinks for laundry and drying racks. We showered, washed out socks and underwear, and went to dinner at a quaint medieval-like restaurant on the narrow main street of this small village. I believe the constant flow of pilgrims passing through keep this town alive.
All for now. Hope to get a better night´s sleep than yesterday.
Continued at thevoice.us/journey-stop-unique-tomas-place