Editor’s note: Rick McKay, Joe Masonick, and Jack Karolewski, have been travel companions for more than 50 years to a variety of sites with many goals. This week’s adventure is the 30th in the series, a 14-day hike in 2005 across northern Spain’s intriguing Camino de Santiago known as the Way of Santiago, for a religious retreat and pilgrimage. Visiting various villages on the journey requires continual hiking and climbing. Previously the trio’s exploits were focused on an 11-week trans-Asia trip in 1977. This week’s journal is a continuation of Day 15 on the journey’s arrival in Santiago Friday, Sept. 30, 2005.
The previous article is at thevoice.us/final-steps-achieved-on-the-road-to-cathedral-of-santiago
By Rick McKay
As disappointing as was the approach to Santiago, once we entered the old city, the atmosphere changed dramatically. We felt as though we suddenly had been plunged back into an earlier time, one to which we had become accustomed over these past few weeks. Then, the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella came into view. It rose up before us as we approached until it towered over us as we gazed up at the stairway and portico which led to its magnificent entrance. To call it spectacular would be an understatement!
The cathedral complex more than rivals the Vatican in Rome. Its many ornate towers, filigrees, balustrades, reliefs, and statuary provide a sumptuous feast for the eye.
After procuring lodging for the night at the Hotel Real, a classic structure with a lavish inner courtyard and along the north edge of the plaza which runs the length of the cathedral, we approached and entered the church building to partake in all of the traditional acts which pilgrims have performed for centuries upon their arrival at this holy destination. First, we pressed our fingers into the ‘Tree of Jesse,’ a tall sculpture in stone depicting the supposed lineage of Jesus. About chest high one can see the deep polished grooves worn smooth by the fingers of hundreds of thousands of peregrinos who have reached out and reverently laid their hands there, while silently saying a prayer of petition to St. James (Iago).
On the other side and at the base of the tree is the large sculpted head of Mateo, the renowned architect who designed the cathedral’s splendid portico. After touching the ‘Tree of Jesse’ it is traditional to walk around and bump one’s forehead against that of Mateo. It was believed that doing this gentle act might induce the spirit of this figure to pass on some of his wisdom to each of us.
Passing the tree and walking down the nave, we approached the awe-inspiring Baroque alter, shimmering with gold, which towered above us. Gazing down was the image of St. James. Walking around to the right, we found a narrow stairway that ascended to, and passed behind, the statue of Santiago. We queued up behind the pilgrims who had reached this spot prior to us. Once one reaches to top, it is tradition to embrace the figure of Santiago from behind and give it a little hug, an act of appreciation to St. James for the safe completion of the journey, and an opportunity to ask his favor in front of God.
Having done these three things, we descended into the crypt where the bones of the saint are said to reside. According to the legend, St. James, after ministering to the people of Spain, returned to his home in the Holy Land only to be martyred there by beheading. According to legend, his body was miraculously carried back to Spain in a stone boat and brought to what is today Santiago.
Upon completing these traditional acts, Jack and I (Joe had separated from us upon entering the church) sought out the Office of the Compostela where we showed our credentials and affirmed that we had indeed walked the distance from Astorga to Santiago.
Having received our Compostelas, an official certificate stamped for authenticity, we purchased carrying tubes to protect them, then returned to our hotel room, looking for Joe along the way.
As I write, perhaps an hour later, I am sitting outside a cafe next to the southwestern tower of the Cathedral, the great bell just now tolling six. There is a gentle breeze, clear skies, and late afternoon sunlight bathing the center of the plaza.
Tomorrow we will attend the Peregrino’s Mass where our names will be read aloud to acknowledge our completion of the pilgrimage.
All for now. Be home in five days, God willing.
Feedback:
I have loved sharing my series on Camino de Santiago! Because the series is nearing its end, I include a YouTube link, youtu.be/wiN2l1eBnm0, to a one-hour video I created of my adventure.
Any interested readers can send questions and comments to rmckay.camino@gmail.com.
— Rick McKay
Continued at thevoice.us/pilgrims-mass-in-santiago-many-nationalities-attend