Second of three parts
The first part is available at thevoice.us/recalling-a-special-trip-to-europe-with-her-daughter
Traveling throughout Europe with a Eurilpass allowed us unlimited first class travel. The European trains are fast, efficient, immaculately clean rolling wheels of steel. There is a restroom on every car that is big enough to accommodate wheelchairs. After leaving Vienna, we (my 11-year-old daughter, Suzanne, and I) went to Salzburg, Innsbruck, Zurich, and Munich. We settled in Bonn, West Germany, and took day trips to other parts of Germany.
The train stations have visitor bureaus where a visitor can pick out the hotel. A call is made and the reservation is complete. There is an enormous breakfast buffet at the hotel situated in an Old World ambience with open windows and sunshine filtering over all. German cuisine rivals the French for taste and presentation.
Of all the cities in West Germany, Cologne needed a treasury for the skulls of the Magi. These were the holiest relics in the country. As with most European cathedrals, work went slowly and for centuries not much attention was paid to it. During the French Revolution, it was used as a barn and as a prison.
Legend has it that the architect, in true 13th Century style, had offered to sell his soul to the devil in exchange for the plan of a wondrous building. When he received the plan, however, he vanquished Satan by waving before him a piece of the true Cross. Finally, in 1823 interest reawakened and the building was continued following the original plan which had escaped destruction. This took 40 years to restore the interior, complete the roofs and walls, and add towers and spires.
When we left the Hauptbonhof (train station), the Cathedral was directly to the right. The interior is dazzling in its immensity and wealth of decoration. Besides the Magi relics, the bones of St. Ursula are here, as well. There is behind the high altar, a shrine of gold and precious stones. Another white candle lighted, and another one of my wishes petitioned.
Outside, the day was blessed with sun and cool. The Deutsch Mark was exchanging at 1.85 per American dollar and the bank teller gave both of us delicious chocolates. With an auf Wiedersehen, we again boarded the express train to Copenhagen. After six days, we visited Sweden and returned by train to Paris.
Veuillex ecrire jusqu’a heure part le dernier train pour Paris? Or: Please write when the last train to Paris leaves. My French is a composite of finger motions, stammers, head into the Berlitz book, head-shaking intrigue. Arriving in Paris at night, my first impression was of crowds and noise. The Metro was overflowing with university students who were loudly singing. Across the aisle two individuals were speaking in English. I asked where they were from in the States and, glory, they answered the Fox Valley area. Now what are the chances they would be from the same area as we were in the dark of a Paris night on the Metro?
Trying to carry our suitcases up the many steps, a young man leaned to me and asked if he could help us. Yes, yes, you can and merci. It was raining gently when we made our exit to the Mont St. Michel area. Our hotel was directly across the street from the Sorbonne, the seat of the faculties of letters and science of the University of Paris. It was a 10-minute walk from the Notre Dame de Paris Cathedral. We shared a soft down-comforter bed and for breakfast were served hot French breads and hot chocolate. I remember the delicious raspberry jam and butter for the breads. The French have the lock on delicious foods.
Paris was originally a village on the Ile de la Cite in the middle of the Seine. It is the site of the home on the Quai of philosophy’s most torrid, tragic, lovers, Heloise and Abelard. Down a wonderful medieval-looking alley, we bought fantastic sugar and fruit crepes.
In this Notre Dame Cathedral came Raymond VI, proud prince of the Midi, a barefoot penitent to the altar. Here in 1431 a child Henry VI, King of England, was crowned King of France. His short reign ended when Joan of Arc recaptured Paris.
Time to leave. The Sea Train left Oostende, Belgium several days later.
Continued next week