Cathedrals compelling

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By Rick McKay

Editor’s note: Rick McKay, Joe Masonick, and Jack Karolewski, have been travel companions for more than 50 years to a variety of sites with many goals. This week’s adventure is the 13th in the series.

The previous article is at thevoice.us/ancient-pilgrimage-new

The 14-day hike across northern Spain followed our three retirements as teachers. The origins of this famous route go back pre-historic times. The ancient pilgrimage route was called the Camino de Santiago known as the Way of St. James.

This week begins sharing the journal kept on our hiking adventure.

Day 1: Leon, Spain, Friday, Sept. 16, 2005

Arrived in Leon last night close to sunset. Carried our packs across the old Roman bridge to the San Marcos parador where we spent the evening, sleeping in late this morning. Began touring the city around 11 a.m.. The weather here is gorgeous with temperatures in the 70s, bright sunny skies. We are quickly becoming acclimated to the new hours and conditions. Tomorrow we take an early bus to Astorga and begin our hike in earnest.

The highlights of today’s sightseeing include the two cathedrals of Leon: San Isidoro and the Leon Cathedral. The Saint Isidoro is given credit with compiling the world’s first encyclopedia. The cathedral dedicated to him is the smaller of the two in Leon. It was built on the site of a Roman temple dedicated to Mercury, and is right on the Camino route. In the small square outside there is a continuously running fresh-water fountain where pilgrims passing by can refill their bottles.

Within the City, the pilgrimage route can be identified by bronze scallop shells, imbedded at regular intervals, in the cobblestone street. The scallop shell is the symbol of the Camino, and markings along the way help to keep pilgrims on the correct path. Beyond the cathedral San Isidoro and its fountain, one arrives at the much larger Leon Cathedral. We walked the perimeter, took photos, and lounged on the benches in the square until it opened after siesta (2 p.m. to 4 p.m.), and spotted here and there the lone pilgrim, or two or three together, arriving at the site.

While waiting, I am struck by the western portal illustrating in stone the Judgment of Christ. It depicts the figure of Jesus sitting on a throne, his foot resting on a small representation of the holy city of Jerusalem. Directly below, risen souls deemed good are ushered to his right hand and through the doors to Heaven, while those who failed to pass muster are directed to his left by an angel, demons grabbing them, and casting them kicking and screaming into vats of boiling water, or devouring their bodies whole, all graphically depicted in stone!

Once inside the cathedral I was awestruck by the deep colors—reds, greens, blues, yellows—of the magnificent stained glass windows rising high in the buttressed walls. I was drawn to the many sculptured figures in the numerous nooks and crannies, reflecting on the fact that hundreds of years ago masons stood on these very spots, hammers and chisels in hand, lovingly-carving figures and scenes that reinforced the teachings and admonitions of the Church. Death, of course, is a constant theme wherever one looks—skulls abounding and even a full-sized figure of the grim reaper! The work of the masons was done in anonymity, yet each was a unique soul with a personal history, perhaps a family, hopes and aspirations, frustrations and disappointments, such as each of us today. Standing before them, I felt that I could reach across the centuries and feel some kinship with their individual spirits and an appreciation of their dedication to their work.

As the day nears an end, we have returned to the Internet Cafe to complete our account of this, the first day of our adventure. Until next time, I bid you a fair adieu!

Continued at thevoice.us/old-roman-town-landscape-beautiful

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