The year is 1574 and the Hotel de Sens in Paris is welcoming Christmas guests. It was where the great lords of the Church lived and they seemed to have been, almost without exception, a rascally lot. The Cardinal of Lorrraine lived here. Some historians insist that Henry IV’s death was plotted here.
But now it is the Christmas season and the Marche de Noel, the festive holiday markets, are offering a beautiful array of festive goods. There are handmade laces, artwork, jewelry, toys, and delicious sweets. The City of Lights in France puts on a spectacular display of illuminations, choirs, concerts, and events.
Pere Noel is the familiar white-bearded character of Father Christmas. If children are good, they will be rewarded with fresh oranges. If the children have misbehaved, they will be visited by Le Pere Fouettar who is an evil character dressed in black and smeared with coal. It is believed that he would whip children who had misbehaved.
The Christmas tree first appeared in France in Alsace in 1521 and is called le sapin de noel. Beginning December 6, St. Nicholas Day, the season begins with the tree-lighting in the homes. Gifts are placed under the tree which Pere Noel has brought. The tree is decorated with red apples and candles. The children are anxious to see the huge trees in the Galleries LaFayette and Printemps Haussmann. In 1889 they will wish to go ice skating on the first level of the Eiffel Tower. And, oh so softly, the snow begins to fall to create a magical moment.
French cuisine is world renown and the country is known for its rich culinary traditions. In the Alsace region, many families feast on goose for their main meal. In Paris, the Christmas table will have oysters and foie gras. In Burgandy, there is a turkey with chestnuts.
There are 13 desserts to be served, said to represent Jesus and his 12 apostles at the Last Supper. Candied fruits, cookies, cakes, and fancy breads can be enjoyed. A favorite is salted butter caramels. Each guest is expected to try each one! A Yule log cake is a French tradition.
Instead of stockings, French children will leave their shoes by the fireplace for Pere Noel to fill with gifts. In Paris, shop windows show brilliant Christmas displays that showcase opulence with color and design.
The focal point in French homes is the creche. The cities’ live scenes involve puppets or actual actors portraying the characters to tell the story of the birth of Christmas. There are many lovely santons (little saint) figures crafted and sold every December in Marseilles and Aix where large Christmas festivals are held. These little figures first appeared during the French Revolution in the late 18th Century when large nativity scenes were forbidden.
In the rue de l’ Ave-Maria, the families have gathered to watch a Christmas parade of mimes, puppets, actors in seasonal clothing, and St. Nicholas. The evening is early and the children are excited. They await the arrival of Christmas Day. But most especially they wait for the presents they hope to receive.
Pleasures include roasted chestnuts, sugar crepes, taffy apples, roasted nuts, filberts, and hot cocoa or mulled wine for their parents. The Christmas season brings much joy to all and neighbor to neighbor express holiday joy and merriments. For a while all cares fade into the background because it is a time for joyous celebrations.
With this French tradition in mind, may your Christmas be merrie and the New Year bright with possibilities. Happy Christmas to all and to all a good night.