First of three parts
“The only drawback of an English Summer is that it lasts so short a time” —Country Life 1 May 1911
Did you know that in London you could hear 300 languages and visit 70 museums?
Going across the Big Pond promises adventure, excitement, and novelty. So again I visited this great city. I was curious to read the daily newspapers and ascertain the British thought of American politics, of Brexit, and of the Royals in general. Because the monarchy costs British taxpayers $85 Million yearly, it is understandable to want to know how the money is spent. The daily papers are kept in the hotel lobby, so sitting on a comfortable green sofa, it was one of the pleasures of this visit.
London is sometimes referred to as “the most civilized capital in the world” and business is its main engine. Trade follows the flag and as the banks loaned money, the factories, the trading ports, the palaces and the narrow houses sprang up. The City is known as the Square Mile bounded by the Thames River. It lies within the Roman walls that Boadicea stormed and once comprised all of London.
Watching the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, along with other Summer visitors, I thought about this home of the sovereign since the accession of Queen Victoria in 1837. The Palace is a 775-room complex. The majestic ritual draws visitors from around the globe who maneuver for places along the fence to see and take photographs; to be a part of the historic moment; to converse with multi-nationals from Paris and Bonn and Zurich and Rome. This ritual happens four times a week at 11:30 a.m..
Jo Fredell Higgins photo
History and tradition wear the same glove in London and both are highly valued. The British do not bulldoze their buildings or monuments to the past. They exalt them. Sir Thomas Gresham (1519-1579) founded the Royal Exchange down Threadneedle Street. His father was the lord mayor of London. His crest was a grasshopper and hanging over the pavement, high up, is a gilded model of a grasshopper. Another merchant of the time was Richard Staper who discovered the trade routes to Turkey and East India. He remained humble in prosperity.
Trafalgar Square commemorates the British victory in the 1805 naval battle during the Napoleonic Wars. Commander Horotio Nelson is honored with a column here. The plaza is filled with mimes, musicians, and activities.
The National Gallery is free and security checks out purses and persons since London carnage in 2017. The museum shows 9,000 works, including Cezanne, Van Gogh, Rubens, da Vinci and Monet. Across the street is St. Martin-in-the-Fields Church and free noon classical concerts. In the crypt is a brass rubbing area which I enjoyed. There is a bookshop and café.
If you were lucky enough to live in London for a year, you still could not see everything in this great City. So a visitor has to decide how to spend the precious time while there. I wanted to visit the Peggy Porschen cake shop and Gail’s Artisan Bakery. Just for research, you understand, and for the delicate flavors presented in cakes and cookies and other tempting tastes.
What else does one need but a loaf of bread, a jug of fresh lemonade, and books? London has booksellers of every description, and more than 200 libraries. The British Library has approximately 200 Million items. One of the most unusual bookshops sits on the water close to Granary Square on a former 1920s Dutch barge. It calls itself “Word on the Water” and has been in business since 2010.
Daunt Books captivates with its stained glass window and fresh flowers. It is considered one of the most beautiful in all of London. Foster Books offers old and rare titles and John Sandoe Books just off Sloane Square is made up of three adjoining 18th Century shops. Hatchard’s in Piccadilly Circus is beautiful with fresh flowers and two-stories of books. London is an earthly paradise for those who cherish the English language, art and architecture, and history. Flowers abound and gardens are everywhere.
Join me next week for more adventures in olde Londontown.
Continued at thevoice.us/languid-london-captured-on-warm-september-holidays