Editor’s note: Rick McKay, Joe Masonick, and Jack Karolewski, have been travel companions for more than 50 years to a variety of site with many goals. This week’s adventure is the 18th in the series, a 14-day hike in 2005 across northern Spain’s intriguing Camino de Santiago, known as the Way of Santiago, for a religious retreat and pilgrimage. Visiting various villages on the journey requires continual hiking and climbing.
The previous article is at thevoice.us/hiking-in-northern-spain-somewhere-in-19th-century-not-21st
By Rick McKay
Day 5: Ponferrada to Villfranca, Tuesday, Sept. 20, 2005.
After a wonderful night’s sleep during which I heard not a sound, I awoke on my own at about 6:45 a.m.. I crept to the internet room to see if there were any responses to my postings to my wife Marsha, from the night before. While online, the fire alarm went off! Though it was a false alarm, by the time it was turned off, everyone was stirring.
Departing the albergue before 8 a.m., we ate breakfast at the cafe where we dined the night before (coffee and a large croissant), before starting the long trek out of town (Ponferrada is a large modern city, west of the old town where we passed the night).
Soon we found ourselves in the most bucolic of settings: The vineyards of El Bierza, where low-standing vines were heavy-laden with clusters of ripe grapes, dark reddish-blue with a subtle sweet taste. Indeed, I plucked one and popped it in my mouth, and savored its plump roundness and its tasty nectar.
We stopped for lunch in Cacebalas—a bocadilla (jamon y queso—ham and cheese), a beer, and a Magnum bar (chocolate-covered ice cream with encrusted bits of almond—delicious!)
Although the first eight miles were relatively easy, the going being flat, the final 5½ miles made up for it with grueling ups and downs in the much more intense afternoon heat.
Finally, around 4:15 Villafranca del Bierzo suddenly came into view around the bend of the gravel path over which we had been struggling. Beyond the hill on the left, the castle walls and towers of the old city fortress emerged and the signs for Villafranca’s al bergues posted along the trail signaled a welcome end to today’s segment.
We will spend the night at Ave Fenix, the albergue of Jesus Jato, a man in his 60s, who has dedicated his life to the care of pilgrims on the Camino. Many people believe this man is a modern-age healer. Some journey the Camino just to consult with him.
Note: For more about this legend check out (moratinoslife.blogspot.com/2015/12/a-healer-called-jato.html)
Tomorrow we begin to climb the western range of the Cordillera Cantabricaover which we must pass before slowly descending into Santiago.
Continued at thevoice.us/flaming-brew-in-the-courtyard-intertwined-with-blessings