Editor’s note: Rick McKay, Joe Masonick, and Jack Karolewski, have been travel companions for more than 50 years to a variety of sites with many goals. This week’s adventure is the 19th in the series, a 14-day hike in 2005 across northern Spain’s intriguing Camino de Santiago, known as the Way of Santiago, for a religious retreat and pilgrimage. Visiting various villages on the journey requires continual hiking and climbing.
The previous article is at thevoice.us/travels-in-spain-city-and-bucolic
By Rick McKay
Day 6: Villfranca to Vega de Valcarce, Wednesday, Sept. 21, 2005
Last night after checking in and doing laundry we strolled past the castle whose imposing turrets dominate this narrow valley town, hills rising sharply to the south, north, and west.
Eventually we found the town plaza where two cafes served early evening meals for peregrinos. The regional wine (El Bierzo) was included in the fixed menu price and it was apparently bottomless. As soon as the first bottle was empty, the proprietor plunked down another one on our table. Surprisingly, though we shared two bottles among the three of us, we suffered absolutely no ill-effects later on because the wine is sulfite-free.
On returning to the albergue around 10 p.m. I laid down on my cot, figuring the events of the evening were through. Within minutes I was asleep and, because Jack and Joe decided not to rouse me, I missed the traditional festivity of the night when Jesus Jato makes his famous flaming brew in the courtyard and blesses the pilgrims, reminding them that the real Camino is the one which happens inside each individual. Then he fills a cup with a ladle and passes it. Joe said it tasted like hot wine.
Jesus is known for treating the ailments of pilgrims. During the afternoon, while writing in my journal, I watched him treat a 55-year old woman who seemed to be suffering the same pain as me. He held her ankle across his knee with one hand on top, his other hand to her forehead. He sat for several minutes with is head bowed in silent prayer, or meditation. Meanwhile, another volunteer prepared a bath of what I assumed were epson salts or something of the like. After ministering to her, he had her bathe her feet for 10 minutes, or so.
She was very appreciative of the attention, offering to pay him, which he refused. It wasn’t clear whether the treatment worked or not.
Continued at https://thevoice.us/a-mountain-crossing-in-spain-and-watchful-sheep-dog