Alice enjoys lingering for hot tea, timely opulence

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Alice was visiting the ancient home and fortress of the Earls and Dukes of Atholl which was situated in the wide Strath of Garry on the main route through the Scottish central Highlands.

The Banvie burn runs in front of the castle and tumbles through its narrow glen among the giant larches, Scots firs, beeches, and colorful rhododendrons. Atholl is through a great avenue of lime trees on the east front of the castle which has existed for more than 700 years. The castle has known the splendor of royal visitations, submitted to occupation by opposing forces and has suffered siege and partial destruction and changed its “architectural appearance to suit the tastes of many generations.

Blair Castle, in Scotland. Guillaume Piolle photo

In 1536 Mary, Queen of Scots, was entertained to a hunt at which 360 red deer and five wolves were killed.

It was not until 1869 that the old tower was returned to its original appearance with its stepped gable and bartizan. It was then that David and John Bryce were to recastellate the building and added the current entrance and a ballroom to the north.

Alice walked to the Entrance Hall which was built in 1872 by the 7th Duke. There is arranged a large collection of arms, rifles, targes, swords, cross-bows, and powder horns. The oak chairs have been painted with coronet and thistle and supplied by the London-maker, Cobb, in 1751. There are mounted stags which had been kept in the parks in the mid-19th Century. Their horns were collected yearly when they shed them and were then mounted on the skulls of other stags.

Alice moves to the Guard Room which was above the old prison. In 1869 the skeletons of three men were found under the floor of the opposite room. The plaster work of the ceiling shows its central shallow dome. Clayton was a stuccoist who carried out this new decoration under the architect Winter. Framed family portraits decorated all the castle walls mostly in gold gilt frames.

In the Tea Room Alice enjoyed the 18th Century Chippendale and Sheraton cabinets that contain a magnificent collection of china from the famous French State factory of Sevres near Paris which was established in 1755. She could imagine enjoying afternoon tea in this room with its fine plaster work and a frieze of musical instruments over the fireplace. A large secretary desk was against the wall and provided a selection of stationery, pens, and franking stamps. Alice felt she could linger in this room enjoying hot tea with lemon and biscuits with raspberry jam. All the while engaged in a conversation about public morality and current events.

The Red Dressing Room was now used as a Book Room. The room has the library of Lord George Murray which he took with him in exile in Holland. The grandfather clock against the south wall chimed three o’clock. It was, precisely, time for tea.

The Derby Suite shows an embroidered coverlet that Charlotte de la Tremouille had worked the embroidery of the bed curtains. It would be a comfortable room for slumber, thought Alice. Such opulence was usual for the titled rich during that time, she mused.

Because it was a beautiful May afternoon, Alice chose to walk among the lush grounds before returning to her hotel. The day had been full and joyful.

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