Julia was leaving Rome on a fast train to visit Saturnia and its thermal spring baths. She had been 10 days in the Eternal City and wished to luxuriate in the water and its healing powers. The temperature was said to be 99.5 F.
The Medieval legend has it that its springs were born at the exact point where Jupiter’s thunderbolt fell in a battle against Saturn and the scars left by the thunderbolt were the portals to Hell and that is why there was the steamy water gushing out.
Julia was aware that the baths had no changing rooms, but Europeans being Europeans, they didn’t mind. They simply changed into bathing attire in the parking lots, sometimes sandwiched between cars for a modicum of privacy. Men were men and women were women and the human body and nudity suited Europeans just fine. Europeans made a great distinction between human nudity and human sexuality.
So, when in Rome, do as the Romans do.
She changed her floral Summer dress into a yellow bathing suit and walked to immerse herself in the waterfall Cascate del Mulino. The walls are medieval and built by the Aldobrandeschi family. The walls surround an old Roman gate dating back to the second century B.C. and the Romans and the Etruscans were here and they saw the turquoise pools, steam rising from each. At the top was the 20-foot waterfall thundering in a torrent over the edge and down to a pool below.
A Greek historian from 60 B.C. wrote that this area was inhabited by pre-classical populations of Greece. Later came the Etruscans followed by the Romans, as proven by the beautiful Portal Romana, Roman Gates, of the 2nd Century B.C..
Julia immersed herself in the hot water springs and all her cares and concerns dissipated. She spoke to some Americans who were visiting the area before their return to the States. She closed her eyes and thought of all the joy this Roman holiday had offered. From the delicious Italian meals to the ancient ruins to the hotel gatherings each evening courtesy of the owner and host. She found the fruitcake she so enjoyed and some lavender t.p. which is not sold in the States. Now to fit it in her suitcase!
Julia lingered for more than an hour in the baths and then hunger took over and she wanted to go to Il Cantuccio for the tagliolini con tortufo fresco for her mid-afternoon meal. The wood beamed ceiling hovered over the small tables with white linen tablecloths. Chef Marco was terribly pleasant and Julia enjoyed the charcuterie plate with local cheeses, tomatoes, crusty breads, and assorted meats. She knew that she had the 102-mile train ride back to Rome still to complete this day. She bid her host arrivederci and went to the train station to await the next train back to Rome.
In the small gift shop Julia bought postcards, a packet of jelly beans and the International Herald Tribune which published in English. She could read it en route to Rome. She could tell others that the baths are open to the public and free throughout the year. And they are worth the trip!